19/06/20
The Infatuation
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London Review: atis Old Street
“We’ve done some maths, and before you even get to your premium extras at Atis, you have to make a choice between 18 million possible salad outcomes. Okay, we didn’t do maths, but that’s how it feels here when you first try to take in all the bases and ingredients and crunchy things and dressings and extras that are on offer at this all-day Shoreditch salad spot. Fortunately they have some ideas about what we really want, and those ideas are all good. We particularly like the Azteca (romaine, spinach, black beans, feta, avocado, tortilla shards, coriander lime dressing), and the Mighty Miso warm bowl (wild rice, kale, beetroot, lemon broccoli, edamame, miso ginger aubergine, crispy shallots), and we’re not against adding some extras like sesame miso tofu or blackened chicken. You could perch and eat here, but if you work locally you’ll more likely want to grab and go. And you should. The salads are huge, they’re made to order, and everything tastes good.”